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When I first began sewing, I underestimated the importance of proper use. I figured I could use the needle that came with my machine for all projects until it broke, right? Using the correct needle and frequently changing the needle makes ALL the difference. Think of it like this, you wouldn’t use a wrench to hammer in a nail. It’s not the proper tool for the job. Sewing needles are the same way.
You need to match the needle with the project. As with any other tool, will eventually wear out. The rule of thumb is to change your needle every 4 to 8 hours of sewing. For great quality needles, you may be able to go longer. For poor quality, best to change every project.
Personally, I don’t keep a timer on my needles, so I pay more attention to how it sews. For instance, if I see skipped stitches, bunching, snagging, or anything other than a perfect stitch, I’ll change the needle. Knowing you are using the correct needle is just one less variable to worry about. Let’s get to know what kind of needles are out there.
Understanding the Sizes So you’re ready to purchase your needles, but what do the numbers mean? There are two sizes, the American size and the European size with a ‘/’ separating the numbers. The larger number is European sizing and the smaller number is American sizing. The size needle you need depends on the weight of your fabric.
Think of it like this, a size 70/10 needle is for fine fabrics and the strength or the shaft and point are designed as such. If you use a 70/10 needle to sew two pieces of denim, chances are that needle will be out of service very quickly.
Let’s look at some general guidelines: 60/8 – For the most lightweight fabrics, like Organza, Chiffon, or Georgette. 70/10 – Light weight polyester or Silk, like you would use on a light blouse. – Most Commonly Used – Cotton, Rayon, blends. – Mid-heavy fabrics, like Corduroy, raw Silks, bottom weight fabric. – Heavy fabrics, like Denim and Duck Cloth. – For Very Heavy Fabric, like Canvas or tapestry.
– Heaviest Fabrics, like luggage handles and boat canvas. Not sure about the right needle for your project? Leave us a message in the comment section below and we’ll help you find it!
I have a Brother LX 3817 machine and am not sure which type of needles it requires – I keep getting the site to purchase machine rather than the needle when I try their website. I have primarily been using fleece and cotton/polyester blends, so I can see that you suggest the and universal needles, but I would like to know which specifically, to purchase. A link would be most appreciated.
I would also like to add that your page simply astounded me when I read it. Every issue I have had seems to be answered on this one page–and I have been to a LOT of different Youtube and Google sites looking for answers of how to resolve my issues! I have been having a lot of trouble with my machine bunching the underneath stiches and making a mess!
It worked perfectly when I started but later I had troubles. This is my second sewing machine and I had the same issues with the first (more of a child sized machine). I now realize that I hadn’t been changing the needle per project, nor per fabric. I really hope this helps solve the issue. Thank you so very, very much for this page, Amber. Hello, I would be so grateful for advice!
I have a Pfaff select 4.2 and want to sew through 1 or 2 layers of bike tire inner-tubes. The tube feeds perfectly through the foot of my machine, the needle goes through the inner tube, but I get no stitches! I’ve tried Schmetz leather, Microtex and universal needles of different types, Gutermann universal and extra strong thread, sewing fast, sewing slow, using brand new needles, re-threading the machine, different tension – always the same result – holes in the rubber tube but no stitch. Am I using the wrong needle?
Would a jeans or special needle be better or is my Pfaff not the right machine to do this? Thank you so much for your help. Hello Shelly, I don’t know if you figured out a solution but thought I could offer a couple of suggestions.
First I think a thorough cleaning may be in order. Remove the bobbin compartment and clean every piece with a Q-Tip and a very small drop of machine oil, 3 in 1 or similar. The oil weight is critical.
Wipe everything to be certain the oil is removed. Second, try to find some sewing paper or lightweight tracing paper. Then use the paper between the fabric and the faceplate. The paper provides a smooth surface and the terry won’t get pushed into the bobbin case. Also, make sure your needle is very sharp. I’m a beginner sewer and I just have a cheap SQ9185 Brother machine.
I’m just using it for small craft projects. I’m making the microwave bowl pot holder and having a hard time going thru the thickness of two layers of cotton fabric and two layers of batting. Especially when I come to the area’s of the darts.I’m thinking I might not be using the correct needle? I have bent two needles so far.
One that came on the machine, so I’m not sure what that was. The 2nd one (100/16) did ok at 1st. But now it has bent alsoHELPPPPPPPP. Hello, I’m new to sewing but have been gifted a Pfaff Creative Vision 5.0, so I have a machine that can do WAY more than I know how to handle at this point, although I’m very motivated to learn. Thank you for this incredibly informative post and replying to all the comments – wow! I am hoping you can help with a recommendation for the project I am working on.
I’m sewing together a layer of Moda fabric, then a layer of Insul-Bright (Warm Company), a layer of Insul-Shine (Warm Company) and then another thin cotton fabric. I have been testing pieces using a Schmetz Universal needle and all-purpose Coats thread. If I sew only with the Insul-Bright, it works fine. If I add in the Insul-Shine layer, which has a reflective layer on the outside, the needle jumps and the top thread breaks and is shredded at the break point. Would changing the needle and thread type help? If you have any recommendations, I’d be so grateful! I have a Singer simple 2263 sewing machine.
What needle and size do I need to sew cotton lycra (knit) fabrics? The gsm on those fabrics range from 220-280 gsm. What needle and size do I need to sew cotton (woven) fabric?
These fabrics would be 100% cotton. What needle and size would I use for flannel, fleece, and minky fabrics? I know I need a walking foot for the knit fabrics, but do you know of any other feet I would need to purchase?
Do you know how I would do a faux-serger stitch? I saw one thing on Google about needing a special foot. Do you know if that is true? Hi I have a Brother SE400 I am trying to embroider a simple design containing 4641 stitches with a stitch area of 3.37″ x 3.07 inches. I will be using a 4 x 4 hoop that comes with the brother.
I will be embroidering the design onto a dish towel made out of flour sac material. It is very thin material. Would you use tear away stabilizer? Standard thickness? Which needle would you use? Do you know how long it would take for the machine to stitch dish?
From time of pushing the button until finish? This will be my 1st embroidery attempt, so I have many questions. Thank you for all your help. I was able to find a little information on the two machines. The 29k31 uses bobbin #82552.
It can be purchased via the following link:. The needle system it takes is 29×4. Unfortunately we do not sell these; however, if you type in the needle system on google, you should be able to find them. For the Singer 42-5, they use bobbin #014535, but they have been discontinued. The needle system it takes is 16×64 (specifically for leather). We do not sell these needles either.
For sewing leather and horse blankets, I suggest either Fil-tec or Coats and Clark. Fil-tec is more heavy duty industrial type whereas Coats and Clark is heavy duty home sewing. These can also be viewed/purchased via the following links:. Hi Sarah Sorry i’m sending such a long message, but we really do need help, really hoping you could help us.
I’m trying to help my sister set up her overlocker, we are both newbies to these types of machines I have one at home which sews great and has no problems. My sister is a completely different story, she purchased a Singer Overlocker machine model 14Sh754 over 3 years ago and never used it until I came to stay. Unfortunately we cannot get the machine to sew anything as we cannot set the tension properly, we know it’s threaded correctly that’s the one thing we have managed to sort. We have read loads of blogs and articles on setting the tension but cannot sort it out, I’ve spoken to a friend who lives elsewhere and she suggested we might have the wrong size needles fitted as she had been aware this has been a problem with this model. She suggested we try a size 2058 for this machine, which I’ve not been able source. I’ve seen a 2054 but these seem to be recommended for other models. The needles in the machine were factory fitted and are Cat No: 2022.
The machine was purchased from Lidl on one of their offers. Could you please suggest what the problem may be before we take the machine into a shop for full service etc or just use it as a door stop. Kindest regards Pauline. I also have a brother XL3010. I bought singer needles from sewing parts online for my brother and they do not fit, they are a little bit to long.
I have 2 of the original needles that came with my machine when I got it. I put the needles side by side and the singer needle is a little bit longer then the organ needles 3 HAX 14 that came with my machine. I also have a brother st371hd and the singer needles are a bit to long for it.
So, you might want to try the Organ needles 3 HAX 14. Hope this helps! Hi Sarah I hope you can help me learn what needle is the best for my projects. I want to sew with 50 weight cotton threads (aurifil) with my cotton fabrics by (jennifer paganelli) to make doll clothes and Women’s dresses.
This is new as I use to sew with cotton polyester fabrics an threads. I am just soooo confused on what is the Best Needle /Size for my cotton threads and fabrics now?? Can you give me some advice what will work best Thanks for all the great info your share on your site. Have A Great Day! Thank you for the informative articles you’ve written.
I have a Juki DNU-1541 and want to make repairs to bridles, harnesses and reins, and possibly do some saddle repair. When I was initially sewing heavy canvas, I used 135×17 size 22 needles with a thread labeled as Nylon 40 100% Poliamida Tex 84 BY69.
I understand a tri-point needle, 135×16, is recommended for leather, using a bonded nylon thread. What I haven’t figured out is what size needle and thread would be recommended to sew this type and weight of leather. Is it possible to use the needles I have but bump up the size of the thread? What would you recommend or suggest I try?
I want to sew leather weighing anywhere from 9oz to 14oz. I would imagine I’d need varying needle and thread sizes for this broad a range. I’d also like to topstitch a single thickness on 8-9oz, 1/8” thick leather.
Would I need to use a different needle and thread for this kind of application, such as in dressmaking and home dec? Also, I’ve sewn garment weight, such as pig suede, using a 90/14 or 100/16 leather needle and Gutermann thread on my Bernina 1030. Would it be overkill to use the industrial Juki? I don’t want to overtax the Bernina. Thank you for helping me with my questions.
I have a Kenmore 30 and I’m sewing a dragon costume for my 5 year old. It’s been 20+ years since I’ve touched a sewing machine and have no clue which needles to use for different parts and the pattern doesn’t give any clues. I have: Wings – light weight mesh under a thin stretchy tight woven sheer I also have to attach chenille and hook/loop tape to it Body – stretchy fabric with metallic printed scales. Have to attach hook/loop tape, zipper, double thick felt, flannel and elastic Please let me know which needles and sizes I should be using for each part.
That sounds like an awesome project! Let’s see if we can get by with just using two needles. Wings: Use a stretch needle size 75/11. Use a Universal 90/14 needle to attach the chenille and hook/loop tape to the “lightweight mesh under a thin stretchy tight woven sheer”. Body: You should be able to repurpose the 75/11 stretch needle to construct the “stretchy fabric with metallic printed scales” (though, ideally you would use a stretch needle size 90/14). Use your universal 90/14 to attach the “hook/loop tape, zipper, double thick felt, flannel and elastic” to the “stretchy fabric with metallic printed scales”. Stretch Needles: Universal Needles.
Hi Sarah, Thanks for writing this helpful article. I’m trying to troubleshoot some issues I am having sewing leather with 277 thread on a Pfaff 145 H4 machine. I cant decide if it is the hook assembly splitting the thread or if I’m using the incorrect needle. I’m a big believer in using the right tool for the job!
When I bought my machine they gave me 135x16rtw #20 needles and 135×17 #24. I thought that these would work and have been great on regular upholstery and medium thickness leathers when I was sewing with a T90 thread. When I wanted to switch to thicker thread (277) I read that I should be using a #24 needle, so thought I was good. Boy was I wrong! That thicker gauge thread is giving me issues. From my online sleuthing, I think I should be using a 190r #24 or #25 needle but I am so confused at this point.
Your expertise would be incredibly helpful! Thanks a million! Hi Sarah, I have a Brother 3034D overlocker. I’m having trouble with a mid weight knit. Have been schmetz universal 80/12 with mostly good results but having the odd 1 hole in a garment.
Tried ball point 90/14 getting worse/ bigger holes. Tried using Klasse brand in other sizes ball point wouldn’t even work. Would a stretch needle in 75/11 still work for mid weight? Struggling to get find best result And if sewing 10 or so garmets per week how often would you recommend changing Needles for best results? I would give these a try in size 75/11: They’ve worked really well for me when a standard ballpoint wasn’t cutting it.
I think the smaller needle size is going to help a lot. As far as when to change the needle.Schmetz is a fantastic brand, so I would think these needles will last you all week. But really it all depends on how many stitches and seams are sewn to create your garment. A 3 seam raglan top isn’t going to break down your needle as much as a light weight jacket would. I just watch my stitches. When you start to see the slightest hint of inconsistent stitching, it’s time to change your needles. I’ve had a Juki MO-634DE serger for 20 years and I’m having troubles all at once as it won’t make a chain stitch.
I have threaded and re-threaded and I am thinking now it’s the needles. I had it serviced 1 year ago and all was well.
I am now thinking it’s my needles, perhaps they are the not seated right or I inserted the wrong ones. Off to the fabric store to buy more today. But the directions say 130/705H and 75/11 thickness. I understand the 130/705H but am wondering if I have to use a 75/11?
Wondering why I can’t use a 90/14 for thicker fabrics. I can’t imagine a 75/11 will hold up for thicker fabrics. But since it’s an older serger maybe I need to use a 75/11?
I’ve never given much thought to my needles before, always inserting the two of the same needles when I replace them. But before I haul my machine in for servicing again I figure inserting new needles would be a good step. Hi dear, I have recently just started sewing using my singer tradition sewing machine and I am having lots of troubles with my machine pulling my fabric in and thread bunching up. I am working with natural hemp stretch jersey fabric and am trying to make leggings, I am using organic cotton thread, I know my issue could possibly be two things, my tensions all off and needle could you please tell me what tension I should set my machine at and exact size of needle would work best for this project, it would literally mean the world to me!!! I’ve read my manual hundred of times, researched on the Web and am trying just about everything there is to get it to sew smoothly but it still bunches up and gives me hell, your advice would legit take me to the stars, it would mean everything to me to be able to get one project finally completed thank you so much♡♡♡♡.
I have a Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8200 QC. I have had problems with it skipping stitches, when I put it under a load like sewing handbags. I just recently got it out of the shop from being serviced. I always start with a new needle and I’ve threaded and re-threaded many times. I’m now beginning to wonder if it could be my needle size?? I’m finding it happens most when I’m trying to sew through four or more layers.
The layers being two layers of cotton and two layers of foam generally. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. I have a White sewing machine from about 1940. The user manual was printed in Canada in 1938. What needles should I buy that are available at Walmart? I sew mostly synthetic fabrics, mostly knits, mostly fairly heavy, I also sew across many layers sometimes. What about sewing on denim?
I have been having a lot of trouble with the thread breaking. Could this be because of the needle being only generic, actually made for Singer? Is there a general problem buying Singer needles?
Can I buy needles made for my White? Thank you so much. Hi David I would use a Denim needle, either size mentioned should work as they’re both for medium to heavy weight fabric. A standard all-purpose thread will work just fine and the stitch you use depends on whether you want the hem decorative or not. A straight stitch will do just fine or a zigzag stitch or an overedge stitch. You can even use a double needle to make two parallel straight stitches. You’re Confidence should have no problem hemming, just remove the accessory tray and take advantage of the free arm.
I am in the process of making a saddle blanket. I could only fine the pattern I wanted in spandex material, but I need to sew it to another stronger kind of fabric. Can I use 100% cotton material to attach the spandex to? What kind of needle should I use to sew them together? What kind of stitch should I use?
And finally, what kind of thread should I use? Should I sew them togethet along all sides leaving a hole to turn it inside out and then sew all the way around, like a fleece blanket? Thanks in advance!
Hi, my husband is a serious do-it-yourselfer. He is very talented and has recently took on remodeling our pontoon boat. He stripped it down to nothing but pontoons and the motor! He has successfully put it back together with new carpet, Bimini top, siding (fencing,) lights and seats. It looks amazing, except there are two sundeck panels on the back. We can not buy those and will need to recover them.
He has ordered the vinyl. I have research and decided that we will use the V-46 thread. I have a simple, Brother 27-Stitch Sewing Machine, LX2763. I know I will have to sew really slow but was wondering what needle I should use and if you have any other advice. I’m not exactly a sewing genius, but I can make simple things.
I really want to do a good job on these pieces since he’s such a handy fella! ? I feel like this might be the ONE area I can actually help with! Thanks for the advice! Hello, I recently purchased a Juki DDL 8700, until now I’ve only ever used my trusty Janome. I’m using the Juki to make purses/wallets. I use cotton and vinyl, faux leather. I started to shop online for needles(I confess I’m not sure if I can just go to Joann’s and get a needle for the Juki like I usually do for my Janome – it’s a whole new ball game for me) and I commonly see Organ needles come up and the sizes just say 20, 21, etc.
Not the usual 90/14, etc that I’m used to seeing. I clearly need help. Haha What needle sizes should I get for what I’m trying to do and how do I translate that to these Organ needles or can I just go to Joann’s and get needles for it? Sorry for all the questions I just don’t know anyone else close to me that has an industrial machine I can go and get help from.
Hi Sarah, Thank you for answering so many questions, your help is very appreciated, especially by this beginner! I read a few of the responses about needles for outdoor fabrics, and wanted to confirm that 90/14, 100/16 would be best for outdoor canvas. I’m using Solarium outdoor canvas that I bought at JoAnn Fabric to make a garden flag for my baby’s gravesite. I’m going to sew a panel of thin woven cotton fabric over it, so I’m wondering whether the 100/16 would leave holes in the thinner fabric. I’d appreciate your recommendation on this. I am a leather purse designer and I have an industrial walking foot sewing machine, it’s a Juki Manufactured Econosew with a servomotor and table.
When I purchased the machine people told me I needed needle size 22/160 and nylon thread size 138. However, I’m finding out that that’s the size for sewing really heavy leather (think sewing two 10 ounce leather pieces together – like thick belt leathers) but what I primarily sew is closer to upholstery weight leather – lightweight and not more than 3.5 ounce max. That said, I have spent hours trying to get the tension right to no avail and I’m thinking it’s because I was told to get the wrong needle/thread size.
Do you have a suggestion for the correct needle/thread size for me to try? I have a Bernina 820. I have done several t shirt quilts with no problem. However I am getting ready to quilt a baseball t shirt quilt and a little concerned as I have several blocks with vinyl like numbers. I worked on a sample with a smetz jeans needle and it seems to be the most successful. I think I need to work slowly and not try to do to much quilting when I get to the vinyl numbers. It is ok but you do see the holes in the vinyl.
I can live with that. Do you have any other suggestions or tips?
I tried researching this online and wasn’t finding much help. Hi Sarah – fantastic site! I make rag quilts with three layers of flannel on my Janome HD3000. I’ve been using a Schmetz universal 90/14 needle.
When I sew over the intersections, which contain multiple layers of flannel, it comes off the “mountain” with one long stitch, and then resumes to normal stitches. (I don’t fold apart the intersections – I make one large fold) I just made my first tee shirt rag quilt (tee shirt with two layers of flannel) and the same thing has been happening. Do I need a different needle? Hi Sarah This is the best needle guideline I have found!
I appreciate that you include info about size AND type of needle, and you don’t limit your information to a particular brand. I just bought a Janome Magnolia 7360, my first computerized machine, and my first machine that I got to research and pick out myself! I bought Janome size 11 needles, for piecing and some blue tip Janomes for experimenting with top stitching and decorative stitching since this model has some decorative stitches. I also plan to do some thread painting or other bobbin work with this machine.
I am pleased with the quality of the Janome needles I bought for piecing (Janome size 11) but wondering if I chose correctly for the decorative stitches and bobbin work. Will I get best results if I switch needles, and is blue tip the right choice? Also, my machine came with some free sewing machine needles but I’m not familiar with the brand: Organ. They are size 90/14. Can you tell me about this Brand -is it good? Wouldn’t 14s be a little large for piecing on high quality cottons?
I am thinking about purchasing an inexpensive brother machine, such as the HB1850, just for the d corative stitches. Something around or under $200 with 100+Built in stitches. What needles would be best to use on a brother machine? I believe the new Brothers can use Janome bobbins- could the inexpensive machine I describe also use Janome needles? And once again what needles would be best for decorative stitching? Thanks so much!
The Blue Tip needles are for embroidery as well as general sewing. If you’re wanting to do decorative top stitching you may want to try these Janome Top Stitch Needles: Organ is a great brand, we actually sell Organ needles.
Size 14 needles are a general purpose size, great for medium-weight knits and synthetics. You should be fine using them on your high quality cotton. Bobbins and needles are specific to sewing machines.
I would suggest using the needles and bobbins recommended by the manufacturer in the manual for the machine. Using bobbins and needles in the wrong machine could damage the machine.
Watched one of your videos tonight and realized that I have never tried using the decorative or character stitches on my sewing machine. I have an Innovis 2500D and the manual said to use a ball point 90/14 needle (gold coloured) with decorative/character stitches. I used a medium weight cotton, with stabilizer backing and Gutermann all purpose polyester thread, and a ball point 90/14 Jersey needle. Some of the stitches I tried were fine, others didn’t look that great. Not sure if the needle is the right type/size and also wondering should I be trying a different thread.
Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks Leslie. First, I must warn you that sewing velvet is tricky. Using a Roller Foot is a great start. You’ll also want to baste your seams, either by hand or with basting tape. If you find your fabric is still slipping around, try sewing with some tissue paper between the layers.
Also, remember to cut your pattern and sew in the direction of the nap. You can use a universal needle in size 90/14 to sew the seams. A microtex (sharp) needle is your best bet if you plan to do any top stitching. Hi, I have an older brother machine, an XM3700. I am planning on making a few things for my friend’s baby shower: an durable outdoor blanket (one side has duck cloth, and the other side I think will have upholstery fabric, sort of like material we see on couches, or even rough/heavy curtains. Should I use a denim needle that’s 100/12 to accommodate the duck fabric, or to be safe, use a 100/18 one to make sure the tapestry is included too?
Next, a burp cloth made from thick folded gerber brand cloth diapers (I think they’re a linen or receiving blanket muslin material? Looks like linen to me though).
Hello Sarah, I own a Brother CS6000i and have yet to use it on more than the initial project, pillows of very lightweight vinyl coated fabric (garment weight) using the needle that came with the machine. I am now going to begin the projects that I purchased the machine for – sewing leather and suede of light to mid-weight (no heavier than 3.5oz/1.4mm thickness), and mid-weight vinyl with woven backing (no more than 1.0 – 1.1mm thickness). Please, I am uncertain if I need to be using 100/16 needles or 110/18 needles, help, don’t want to ruin my material or my machine – and oh yes, please elaborate on ‘CHROME’ needles (SCHMETZ BRAND) and if they have any particular benefit of use Thank you. I have always only sewn knits. Now I am trying something new and sewing with canvas (10 0z cotton canvas) and I am having a difficult time finding a needle that is not leaving a hole when I sew on my zipper for my pillow cases. I have tried Jeans needle( sizes 14, 16, 18). I have tried universal needles (sizes 12,14,16).
I have tried heavy duty needle and lastly a size 14 topstitch needle which probably was the best so far, but still leaving holes in the fabric. I have tried increasing the stitch length. Nothing seams to help.
It is definitely worse when I backstitch, but still every stitch leaves a hole. What else can I try? I am at a loss. The only thing I have not tried is a wing or a stretch needle. Would love your advice.
I haven’t sewn in many moons. I just purchased a Brother CS6000i. I have been learning the machine and practicing just sewing straight lines, messing with the tension, etc.
Stitch 00 is what the machine defaults on and the needle is positioned to the left. I ended up bending the original needle when it hit the foot or something. I purchased the Singer Universal needles and put in a 90/14. I bought some basic fabric from the clearance bins, again just to practice. All was going well and then the needle broke.
Am I using the wrong needle? Should I buy a different brand? I am getting ready to begin my first project, which is a baby blanket with fleece. What needle is best for that one too.
I don’t want to keep breaking the needles. ? Thanks.love your site. Just found it. Thank you for your kind words and for stopping!
A universal 90/15 usually works well for regular, loosely woven burlap (canvas burlap). Because of the rough nature of the fabric, you will need to change you needle more often.
However, I’ve found that Schmetz needles hold up every well with burlap for hours of sewing. Tightly woven burlap – called Hawaiian hemp – is the very stiff and sturdy burlap. It’s not something you use much for pillows or curtains, but work well for outdoor upholstery, wall art, etc. Anything that needs stiff structure and durability. For Hawaiian Hemp, you’ll want to use at least a 100/16 to 110/18 needle, depending on the weight of the fabric.
I hope this was helpful – good luck! Hi- I have a Husqvarna Emerald 183 using a Schmetz universal 70/10.
I am trying to do a narrow topstitch on some burp cloths (two layers of cotton terry cloth and two layers of cotton quilt fabric). If I adjust my needle to the far right position to make a narrow hem, the bobbin jams making a tangle of threads. I have to re-thread the machine and bobbin case (things go fine when sewing through one layer each of terry and cotton) Do you think this is a needle problem?
Thank you for any advice you may have. Thank you for this wonderful site & for taking the time to answer everyone’s questions! I have 2: 1- I have a Brother VX-950 my parents bought it for me 20+ years ago. I am about to embark on my most ambitious project which is a sofa slipcover.
I will probably use a 10 oz cotton duck or 12 oz denim. If I were to invest in 1 of the newer machines in the $150 range, would there be a big difference & is there 1 that u would recommend? I use my machine for alterations & home projects recently tackled triple pleated drapes. While it gets the job done, it’s somewhat finicky bobbin jams, some probs with uneven tension, etc. If it wont make a huge difference, I’d rather not spend the money but if it will make this project easier, I will. 2- What needles wood u recommend for this project? Thanks again!
I’ve never used monofilament in the bobbin, as I had heard some serious horror stories. However, I suppose with a little bit of bobbin tension adjustment and patience, it could work. Part of sewing is experimenting; why not give it a go?
For using monofilament in the needle, you want to use a topstitching or metallic needle in a size suitable for the fabric you’re sewing. Also, you’ll want to reduce the tension a tad. One of the biggest helpers is a thread net. It comes large enough to fit a serger spool, but you cut it down to the size of whatever spool your using.
They make a huge difference when working with metallic and embroidery thread as well. Here is the link. Hi, I broke an Organ 75/11 needle (came with the machine) overlocking mudcloth on a Juki MO-644D. I’m making a 3-thread wide seam, so only using one of the possible two needles as per manual instructions. The manual suggests using “Household type 130/705H for the right needle and 130/705H (JL X 2) for the left-hand needle.” It also designates thickness as No. 75/11but that’s the size that broke (and seems to be the equivalent of a denim needle??)Then it says below this suggestion: When sewing heavy weight fabric, use a JL x 2 as the left needle. I have not been able to find JL X 2 needles anywhere on earth.
Is this a typo? Because I have seen JL X 1. Would an Organ 90/14 sharp work instead? Also, I have a Juki industrial straight sewer DDL-5550N, a mid-weight machine, and the manual suggests using DB X 1 # 9 to # 18.
Where would a denim needle, for example, fall in that range? And if it does fall somewhere in this range, why not just always use the number instead of creating a category of needles called “denim?”. I checked your manual and it does say JLx2, which are practically impossible to find and expensive.
I would try buying a 130/705 universal needle in a size 100/16. I doubt it would break. For the dbx1 needle, you want to use a #16 for denim. The difference between a denim needle and a size 16 needle is in the fine details of the point and shaft. Does it really make a huge difference?
Not likely, but many people like to have a set of denim needles for their denim fabric and use the universal #16 for misc fabric. I am making cloth diaper soaker inserts from recycled terry cloth. My needles keep breaking in the last 2 days I have broke 6! I have a new singer serger that uses regular sewing machine needle. It is my first serger. I bought it a few months ago and it has been working beautifully up until now.After sewing one or two soakers the needles are breaking on the rounded corner:(.
I am just using a universal needle I dont remember which size. Any tips would be appreciated im about one third of my way through a batch for the upcoming market season in may!!!! First, that sounds like an amazing project! You can use different weights of thread, but the heavier the thread, the more damage to the fabric. Are you sewing the sheer fabric directly to the painting, or are you sewing the fabric, then attaching it to the painting later?
The reason I ask is because this could be done a few different ways. If you are sewing the fabric directly on top of the painting, then I would recommend hand sewing the thicker thread. A sewing machine is already harsh on sheer fabric, the added thread weight would knot up and destroy the fabric. If you aren’t creating the line work directly on the painting, you could use a water soluble stabilizer under your sheer fabric while you do the line work on your sewing machine. That way the fabric is supported while the heavier thread is being used. What an interesting project!
Many machines use a triple needle and triple stitch, which I agree would be best for your hair extensions, as they will really lock in the strands. Do you have a machine now? Or are you looking to buy one within a set budget?
I’d be happy to look around and find one for you. As far as needle, it depends if you are using a strip of backing or removable stabilizer to keep the strands neat while you sew. I would think a 90/14 triple needle would work well, or even a 100/16 if you are sewing thick, full hair with a net backing.
This is a new post question, not a reply. I have a baby lock Companion 1500. My owner’s manual doesn’t have any contact info for the manufacturer. I’m trying to sew a simple hem edge finish and a blind stitch on pants that are medium weight blend (74% polyester; 22% rayon; 4% spandex).
I’m using a brand new size 14 needle from a very old package of needles. It doesn’t indicate the type of needle. I’m using a 100% polyester Gutermann thread.
I’ve been unable to stitch in this fabric. The stitch works fine on a 100% cotton pillowcase, but just skips stitches and the thread breaks. I have the upper tension set a 5 and I’ve tried to adjust the lower bobbin tension, but not sure where the factory setting should be. Can you provide any guidance or advice? I am very new to embroidery and I am trying to teach myself to do onesies.
I have a Brother SE400. I seem to do ok to start with but when I switch to the 2nd color my upper thread keeps breaking and my stiches begin to look bad.
I started out using a ball point 75/11 needle and it started out mostly ok yet still seemed to have some off stiches. When the 2nd color was started my thread began to fray and break. I tried to which to a sharp needle which seemed to not break the thread so much but I could tell it was not doing well with the fabric.
Any ideas on what I should try or what could be going wrong. Those bulky projects sure are a pain! I would definitely use a Jean Needle – all purpose thread or heavy duty thread. Try all purpose thread first (good quality), as heavy duty is a little tricky. You’ll need to elongate your stitch and reduce your tension.
Test on a scrap piece of fabric first until you get the tension just right. Also, I would use a Jean Jig to cross over those bulky seams – it’s a HUGE help. If your material is super thick, grab a hammer and pound away at the seams before sewing over intersecting seams.
I know that sounds crazy, but it breaks down the fabric just enough for the needle to pass through a bit better and it flattens out the seam. You can do it!